When you order woven labels, one choice trips up a lot of first-time buyers: the fold type. The fold determines how the label is finished and sewn into the garment — and it affects comfort, look, and the usable design area. Here is a plain-English guide to the common woven label fold types.
Straight cut (no fold)
A flat label with sealed edges and no fold. Often applied as a tagless-style or printed-on patch, or heat-sealed. Simple and economical, but the cut edges are exposed.
End fold (end crease)
The two short ends are folded under to hide raw edges, leaving clean tucked ends that get sewn into a seam. End fold is the most popular fold for neck and side-seam brand labels — it looks finished and is comfortable.
Center fold (loop fold)
The label is folded in half so the design shows on both sides, and the two ends are sewn into a seam, leaving a folded loop. Great when the label may be seen from either side, and a classic look for neck labels and hem tabs.
Mitre fold (manhattan fold)
The ends are folded back at an angle (like a picture-frame corner) so the label sits flat with neat mitred ends. A tidy, premium finish often used for sew-in brand labels.
Loop fold
The label is folded into a loop with both ends together, sewn into a seam so the label hangs as a tab — common for care/size tabs, hem/flag tags, and hanging loops.
Book-cover fold
Both ends are folded under and the label wraps so it can be sewn on two or three sides, like a book cover. It gives a clean, fully finished look with no exposed edges — a premium option for brand labels that show on more than one side.
Cut to shape (die-cut)
Instead of a rectangle, the label is cut to a custom outline — a circle, badge, or your logo’s silhouette. Cut-to-shape labels (usually heat-sealed or with a clean laser-cut edge) make a distinctive, modern statement.
Quick reference
| Fold | Edges | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cut | Sealed, exposed | Heat-seal / flat application |
| End fold | Tucked under | Neck & side-seam brand labels |
| Center fold | Folded, two-sided | Reversible neck labels, tabs |
| Mitre (Manhattan) fold | Angled, flat | Premium flat sew-in labels |
| Loop fold | Looped tab | Care/size tabs, hem & hanging loops |
| Book-cover fold | Fully finished | Multi-side sewn brand labels |
| Cut to shape | Custom outline | Badges, circles, logo silhouettes |
How the fold affects your design
Folds use up label length, so leave margin around your artwork — especially for end and mitre folds, where the folded portion is hidden in the seam. When you request a quote, tell us the fold and we’ll size the artwork so nothing important gets tucked away.
Frequently asked questions
Which woven label fold is the most popular?
The end fold (end crease) is by far the most requested. Its short ends tuck under to hide the raw edges, so the label looks finished and sits comfortably when sewn into a neck or side seam. If you want a clean, professional brand label and aren’t sure where to start, end fold is the safe default — and you can request a free quote to confirm.
What is the difference between a center fold and a loop fold?
A center fold creases the label in half so your design shows on both sides, with both ends sewn into one seam and a folded edge left as a loop — ideal for reversible neck labels. A loop fold brings both ends together and sews them into the seam so the label hangs out as a tab, which is why it’s the go-to for care/size tabs, hem tags, and hanging loops.
How much does the fold reduce my usable design space?
The folded portion disappears into the seam, so end and mitre folds can hide several millimeters at each tucked end, and center or loop folds effectively halve the visible face. Always leave margin around important text and logos. When you order, tell us the fold and we’ll size your artwork so nothing critical gets tucked away in the crease.
Can I use any fold type with a printed label instead of woven?
Most folds work with either construction, but woven labels hold a crisp crease better and resist fraying at folded edges, while printed labels are usually best as straight-cut or heat-sealed. If you’re weighing the two, see woven vs. printed labels before you lock in a fold, since the material affects how clean the finished edge looks.
Still deciding on the label itself?
See woven vs. printed labels and damask vs. satin vs. taffeta, then design your label and get a free quote.
