When you order woven labels, one choice trips up a lot of first-time buyers: the fold type. The fold determines how the label is finished and sewn into the garment — and it affects comfort, look, and the usable design area. Here is a plain-English guide to the common woven label fold types.
Straight cut (no fold)
A flat label with sealed edges and no fold. Often applied as a tagless-style or printed-on patch, or heat-sealed. Simple and economical, but the cut edges are exposed.
End fold (end crease)
The two short ends are folded under to hide raw edges, leaving clean tucked ends that get sewn into a seam. End fold is the most popular fold for neck and side-seam brand labels — it looks finished and is comfortable.
Center fold (loop fold)
The label is folded in half so the design shows on both sides, and the two ends are sewn into a seam, leaving a folded loop. Great when the label may be seen from either side, and a classic look for neck labels and hem tabs.
Mitre fold (manhattan fold)
The ends are folded back at an angle (like a picture-frame corner) so the label sits flat with neat mitred ends. A tidy, premium finish often used for sew-in brand labels.
Loop fold
The label is folded into a loop with both ends together, sewn into a seam so the label hangs as a tab — common for care/size tabs, hem/flag tags, and hanging loops.
Book-cover fold
Both ends are folded under and the label wraps so it can be sewn on two or three sides, like a book cover. It gives a clean, fully finished look with no exposed edges — a premium option for brand labels that show on more than one side.
Cut to shape (die-cut)
Instead of a rectangle, the label is cut to a custom outline — a circle, badge, or your logo’s silhouette. Cut-to-shape labels (usually heat-sealed or with a clean laser-cut edge) make a distinctive, modern statement.
Quick reference
| Fold | Edges | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cut | Sealed, exposed | Heat-seal / flat application |
| End fold | Tucked under | Neck & side-seam brand labels |
| Center fold | Folded, two-sided | Reversible neck labels, tabs |
| Mitre (Manhattan) fold | Angled, flat | Premium flat sew-in labels |
| Loop fold | Looped tab | Care/size tabs, hem & hanging loops |
| Book-cover fold | Fully finished | Multi-side sewn brand labels |
| Cut to shape | Custom outline | Badges, circles, logo silhouettes |
How the fold affects your design
Folds use up label length, so leave margin around your artwork — especially for end and mitre folds, where the folded portion is hidden in the seam. When you request a quote, tell us the fold and we’ll size the artwork so nothing important gets tucked away.
Still deciding on the label itself?
See woven vs. printed labels and damask vs. satin vs. taffeta, then design your label and get a free quote.
